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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.